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La Sartén de Andalucía: How a Mountain Village Became the Costa del Sol's Dining Room
Food & Wine

La Sartén de Andalucía: How a Mountain Village Became the Costa del Sol's Dining Room

A municipality of fewer than 10,000 people keeps more than twenty well-known restaurants in business, twelve months a year, in a single mountain village reached by one road off the coast. That ratio has no real parallel anywhere else on the Costa del Sol — and it is why Andalusians who could eat anywhere between Málaga and Gibraltar so often point their cars uphill to Benahavís instead.

Up the Mountain to Eat: The Country Ventas Above Marbella, from Ojén to Juanár
Food & Wine

Up the Mountain to Eat: The Country Ventas Above Marbella, from Ojén to Juanár

Charles de Gaulle finished part of his war memoirs in a stone hunting lodge in the Sierra Blanca, a fifteen-minute drive above the white village of Ojén. It is still a working restaurant, and it is still where Marbella goes when it wants game, mountain air and a table that has nothing to do with the beach. The ventas of the hills behind the Costa del Sol — Ojén, Istán, Monda — are where local life and some of the best-value cooking on the coast quietly carry on, and the villages around them are the most overlooked property market within twenty minutes of Puerto Banús.

Trocadero Arena at Night: Marbella's Río Real Beach Terrace
Food & Wine

Trocadero Arena at Night: Marbella's Río Real Beach Terrace

The sun drops behind La Concha at around nine on a June evening, and the terrace at Trocadero Arena shifts registers almost immediately. The hammocks have been folded away, the kitchen is into its evening stride, and the DJ — quiet through the lunch service — finds a volume that carries just far enough across the sand without competing with the conversation. This is the version of Trocadero Arena that the daytime photographs do not quite capture, and the version that anyone considering a property on the Marbella east side should know exists.

Eleven Stars Down the Coast: Málaga's Food City and the Marbella Home Forty Minutes Away
Food & Wine

Eleven Stars Down the Coast: Málaga's Food City and the Marbella Home Forty Minutes Away

Málaga province now holds eleven Michelin stars across nine restaurants, and the city where most of them sit is barely forty-five minutes from a Marbella front door. For buyers on the western Costa del Sol, the provincial capital has quietly become the region''s food capital too — a working market, two barrel-poured wine bars older than the railway, and a Michelin-starred dining room over the marina, all an easy lunch away.

An Hour Above the Beach: Ronda's Wine Country and the Highest Vineyards in Málaga
Food & Wine

An Hour Above the Beach: Ronda's Wine Country and the Highest Vineyards in Málaga

The wine on Marbella's better lists rarely comes from the coast. It comes down from 900 metres, an hour inland, off slopes that sit higher than any other vineyards in the province of Málaga. The Serranía de Ronda — the upland country wrapped around the cliff-top town of the same name — is the serious wine region of the Costa del Sol's hinterland, and for a buyer on the coast it is close enough to be a Sunday outing rather than a holiday.

Seven Kitchens on One Hillside: Eating Around Finca Cortesin, Casares and Manilva's Moscatel Vines
Food & Wine

Seven Kitchens on One Hillside: Eating Around Finca Cortesin, Casares and Manilva's Moscatel Vines

Between the AP-7 motorway and the white village of Casares, the MA-8300 climbs through cork oak and olive country past a single estate containing seven restaurants, a Nicklaus-branded golf academy and a 6,000 m² beach club down on the Bahía de Casares. Finca Cortesin is, by some distance, the densest concentration of culinary investment on the far western Costa del Sol — and it sits in a municipality of barely a few thousand registered residents.

Cooked in a Boat: Marbella's Espeto de Sardinas and Beachfront Life
Food & Wine

Cooked in a Boat: Marbella's Espeto de Sardinas and Beachfront Life

The most democratic meal on the Costa del Sol is cooked inside a boat. Not on one — in one. A retired wooden skiff is hauled off the water, half-filled with beach sand, and set on the shore as a hearth; a fire of olive wood is lit in the hull, and rows of fresh sardines threaded onto canes are planted in the sand at the fire's edge to roast in the smoke. The result is the espeto de sardinas, and on most of this coastline a skewer of them still costs only a few euros — grilled, almost without exception, on the same sand that fronts some of the most expensive residential property in Spain.

Benahavís: Inside the Dining Room of the Costa del Sol
Food & Wine

Benahavís: Inside the Dining Room of the Costa del Sol

Benahavís has no beach and no marina. What this village of fewer than ten thousand residents has instead is more than forty restaurants, its own hospitality school training chefs for the whole coast, and a half-century reputation as the dining room of the Costa del Sol — a reputation that tells a property buyer a great deal.

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